Thursday, May 27, 2010

Area chefs' tips for grilling the perfect steak

Area chefs' tips for grilling the perfect steak:
With the outdoor cooking season just started, South Sound chefs offer grilling, herbs advice.
Rib eye, flank steak, skirt steak, strip loin, New York.

Seasoned with sea salt, a grind of black pepper and seared to a perfect diamond grill marks.

Sound like the perfect meal to eat on your terrace?

Just in time for your Memorial Day barbecue party, South Sound chefs we asked for their best tips for herbs, marinating and grilling the perfect steak. She agreed with their favorite recipes for side-asparagus, arugula and potatoes among them.

And here's something you may never have thought of finishing your steak with: butter. High-end restaurants and steak houses are known for butter seasoned with herbs, mushrooms, cheeses and even crisp. Called compound butters, they are easy to install and can be stored in the refrigerator wrapped in plastic and cut as needed. They add an extra punch of flavor and decadence of a steak.

Gordon Naccarato, owner, and Ian Thompson, chief executive

Pacific Grill

1502 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, 253-627-3535, www.pacificgrilltacoma.com

What is your favorite grilled steak?

Thompson: I do not want steak, which is high in fat and marbling, such as strip sirloin or skirt steak to grill. Rib steaks are also good if you can cut it thick, I prefer the bone.

Naccarato: I agree with Ian, but my all-time favorite is rib eye, because the taste is so great. Either rib eye or you will spend - a restaurant, which can be difficult to grill, fillet side, and because New York never seem quite the same cook - temperature-wise.

Do you use a marinade? If so, what do you use?

Thompson: We use a garlic and herb oil infusion on all our steaks at the restaurant. A combination of olive oil and canola oil (20-80 ratio), fresh chopped garlic and chopped fresh herbs like rosemary and Italian parsley.

Naccarato: Be careful with marinades and dry out they can actually cut a good steak, especially when vinegar or citrus juice in them. Simple marinades are best used if at all.

What do you season your steak?

Thompson: We just started a salt that we smoke with apple wood chips in the house to finish our steaks.

Naccarato: We still have the year prior to grilling steaks with salt and lots of freshly ground pepper. The smoked salt is a finishing salt "is added after cooking and just before dinner, which gives an extra smoky flavor. Since the restaurant we have gas grills, smoked salt gives flavor to grilled over real wood. It's wonderful. We use it to season the menu bar "beer nuts" like smoked almonds.

What side dishes are perfect companions for grilled steak taste?

Naccarato: I love arugula and parmesan with steak, Tuscan-sty. The juices mingle with the salad and delicious-it just needs a good splash of extra virgin olive oil and a dash of lemon to the focus of the flavors. Mushrooms are a personal favorite with steak. And a simple "steak frites," as our skinny fries is a perfect complement, although I would argue that a loaded baked potato still has its place.

Currently we serve a steak with a simple Roman pasta "CHEESE Pepe (cheese and pepper). This is a dish that my father cooked for us children to two times a week when we were growing up. It could not be more simple or delicious. Angel hair pasta dad used, but the original recipe is usually made with a thicker pasta such as spaghetti. Dad would grill steaks in New York to work with the pasta, or pan Sauté them in a cast iron skillet. The salty steak juices blended with the peppery cheesy pasta is delicious. (See the accompanying recipe for the dish to make)

Any other grilling tips?

Naccarato: Do not overcook! The only thing worse than over-seasoned food is under-seasoned food. And a steak is cooked a sad thing indeed.

Lisa Owen, chief cook and owner

The Mark

407 SW Columbia St., Olympia, 360-754-4414, themarkolympia.com

What is your favorite grilled steak?

A grass-and grain-fed, free range, hormone-free or flat iron filet mignon. They are both the most lean and tender of cuts. Where possible all ingredients are organic. Why choose grass-fed beef? It has a better fat profile tends to be less fat, but the quality of that fat is better. Also this method of feeding has a lower level of environmental impact.

Do you use a marinade?

Yes, but rarely and only if the cut is less tender. One night in the lemon oil to keep it simple to avoid losing natural flavor of good beef

What is your favorite spices for steak?

Course kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper

What side dishes are perfect companions for grilled steak taste?

Grilled asparagus (should be in season) extra virgin olive oil, natural sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Pasta with fresh or dried porcini mushrooms harvested wild (they are in season), served with olive oil, garlic, sea salt, cracked pepper, a dust of Pecorino Romano.

Arugula or spinach salad, both should be available at your farmers market at the moment. They are in season now so they will have the best taste and nutrition. Serve with a few slices of sweet red tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, a touch of good balsamic vinegar, sea salt, cracked pepper, a dust of grated Pecorino Romano cheese one.

Tasso Zambaras, chef de cuisine

Asado

2810 Sixth Ave., Tacoma, 253-272-7770, www.asadotacoma.com

What is your favorite grilled steak?

I should say that the rib eye is my favorite cut grill. I say that because one of my favorites to eat and relatively easy to cook. The fat content makes it a very juicy steaks and also conducts heat in the meat, which means you can eat faster.

What is your favorite spices for steak?

I must say that either salt and pepper, or I will have a lot of our Asado herbs at home and that's all you really need.

What side dishes are perfect companions for grilled steak taste?

Grilled asparagus. Preparation: First you'll want your asparagus blanch in boiling hot water to help with the cooking and also help those big green color. It usually takes about a minute or two, depending on the thickness of the stems. When these are done pull them out of the boiling water and immerse in an ice bath (just a bowl of ice and water) to stop the cooking process and keep your asparagus from getting all slimy.

Cool guys and bad start when you're ready to grill your steaks, find a nice place and throw them on medium heat. You really just shoots from the earth and get some marks. Season with salt and pepper and baste with some nice olive oil and enjoy.

What other advice to you for grilling the perfect steak dinner at home?

I'd say it simple, using a number of large pieces of meat to keep. Always err on the side under-cooked, if anything. You can always go one under-cooked steak on the grill, but once it happens there is no return.

Diana Prine, executive chef

City Fife Bar and Grill

3025 Pacific Highway E., Fife, 253-922-9555

What is your favorite grilled steak?

My favorite steak is grilled to New York due to the fact that a choice cut is well marbled. Choice is important in the reduction of the steak, because the lower the rank, there is less marbling.

Do you use a marinade?

If it is a quality piece of meat, I do not like to use marinades. Some parts need a little help, such as a flank, for flavor and moisture, and I will balsamic or red wine vinegar, olive oil and herb marinade to use for about three hours.

What do you season your steak?

I want the simple herbs, starting with sea salt and freshly ground pepper and keep right until it comes off the grill, with a finish brushing of olive oil, fresh garlic and fresh chopped rosemary.

Any other grilling tips?

Not use the fork to turn steaks it will pierce the meat and juices to flow. Use pliers. Remove the steak from the grill just before the desired doneness (medium if you prefer, remove the medium rare stage) and let a few minutes allows the juices to spread the steak.

Charlie McManus, chief cook and co-owner with his wife, Jacqueline Plattner

Primo Grill

601 S. Pine St., Tacoma, 253-383-7000, primogrilltacoma.com

What is your favorite grilled steak?

My favorite cut is rib eye. It is tender, has the most flavor and the fat helps caramelize the outside of the steak on a beautiful golden char.

What do you season your steak?

Typically I season with salt and pepper and maybe a little fresh thyme and rosemary picked from the garden.

What side dishes are perfect companions for grilled steak taste?

This time of year, I would opt for new potatoes, simply boiled and served with butter and chives. There are great peruvian purple potatoes in the market that are great. Also red potatoes, boiled until just done, drained and tossed with olive oil, rosemary, salt and pepper and roasted in a 400 degree oven until golden and served with a salad of arugula.

There is a beautiful baby arugula now available. Toss the arugula with olive oil, lemon and salt and pepper and serve with roasted potatoes and steak.

Matt Stickle, executive chef

Bite Restaurant at Hotel Murano

1320 Broadway, Tacoma, 253-238-8000, www.hotelmurano tacoma.com

What is your favorite grilled steak?

I love rib eye steak or skirt. Rib eye for their tastes and tenderness. Skirt for their versatility. You can marinade Spanish, Asian, the Caribbean, Cajun flavors.

Do you use marinades?

A marinade is highly recommended for heavy cuts of meat such as flank, skirt, sternum. Use an acid to help break down muscle. Citrus, vinegar are great for adding flavor as well. Preferably at night to fully penetrate the meat.

What do you season your steak?

I prefer freshly cracked pepper and kosher, sea salt or gray. Escape the iodized salt!

What side dishes are perfect companions for grilled steak taste?

I have just one dish for Mother's Day, which was tossed after I finger ment potatoes cooked in salted water for 20 minutes and then tossed them with truffle oil, truffle salt, black pepper and place them on the grill until they are crisp. Even if you go to Metropolitan Market, they have a great cheese section and they have an individual serving of large pieces of cheese. Choose a few and experiment.

I love arugula with salt, lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil. Or grilled radicchio is a good side, too, with a dash of aged balsamic vinegar.

Chefs know their whims

Whether you're a purist or a charcoal gas grill user, here are methods and tips directly from chefs at the best way to grill a steak.

Chef Diana Prine, Fife City Bar & Grill

On a gas grill: I have some very hot and the other section, medium hot. Start on the hot area and sear, score, run, sear and finish in the medium area. The seals in the scorching juices, and by moving the steak to the cooler area, it will slowly without burning

On the charcoal grill: Get the white-hot charcoal in the center of the grill. The day before, enjoy some wood chips (not a hardwood, I use my apple trimmings) in water. Before the steaks on the grill, sprinkle a small amount of wood to charcoal in a smoke-free launch and steaks in the center of the grill cover and let the steaks and smoke. Proceed as you would on a gas grill where the blazing and will finish on the cooler outer edges of the grill. Do you have a spray bottle of water to any flare-ups from the timber to extinguish.

Check for doneness: I check by touching the center of the steak. The softer, the more rare it is. The softest region in the palm of your hand between thumb and forefinger, is considered the feeling of rare medium is in the center of the palm next to the wrist, and right at the base of the thumb next to the wrist. This method takes some practice and you would like to work with this technique and with a thermometer to confirm until they feel comfortable.

Chief cook Charlie McManus, Primo Grill, Tacoma

Clean the grill: any carbon buildup on the grill racks will hinder a good marker of the steak, and any accumulation of fat in the body or char from the grill could lead to flames, which can ruin a steak.

Build the fire at high temperatures, the ideal use of lump charcoal briquettes or gas, but are fine.

Before grilling: Remove the steaks from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before you plan to cook them. It makes it easier for them to cook to the proper internal temperature.

Oil the grill: Use an old clean cloth kitchen with a little cooking oil poured on it to season the grill.

Season: Brush the steaks with a little olive oil using a pastry brush and season with salt and freshly cracked sea salt.

High heat: Place the steak on the hot grill and cook until a nice crust has developed about four minutes. Cooking with the lid for faster cooking and ventilation openings to adjust to any flames that may be slowing. If the steak has flames around it that do not disappear, then move to another part of the grill.

Let it rest: Remove from grill and let it rest with a loose foil cover for about three minutes before serving. This will allow the juices to collect in the steak and not run out when cut.

Additional tips:

Chef Lisa Owen: "Make sure grill is very clean and bright with good wipe oil."

Chef Tasso Zambaras: (For a wood fire) Get your fire at least 45 minutes before you plan to start cooking. Get a good white-hot burning coal and make sure you do not cook you fresh burning wood. Steaks will dripping of juices which can cause fire to a black sooty a taste of your meat. "

Chef Stickle Matt: "If you find the perfect grill marks, 90 degrees after a few minutes and then turn around and same on the other hand, do. It takes about two minutes the first side and if the (beef) sticks, it's not ready to be rotated. Then grill the other side for two to four minutes depending on thickness. "

Rhubarb cream

2 pounds rhubarb stem only, finely chopped

Juice and zest of two oranges

Juice and zest of one lemon

3 1 / 2 cups raw sugar

1 / 2 cup chopped salted pistachio nuts

Zest the peel and chop the orange and lemon. Extract juice. Wash the rhubarb. Cut into 1/2-inch pieces. Combine all ingredients except nuts and heat slowly until sugar is dissolved. Simmer slowly, stirring constantly. Let cool. Serve with vanilla ice cream and fresh whipped cream. At the service, dust the dish with nuts.

Source: Lisa Owen, The Mark

Worcestershire compound butter

1 pound unsalted butter, soft

1 / 3 cup Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon shallot, chopped

1 teaspoon garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon garlic, roasted and hit

1 tablespoon Italian parsley, finely chopped

1 teaspoon fresh thyme, finely chopped

1 / 3 fluid ounce extra virgin olive oil

Bring butter, room temperature and in a bowl. In a saucepan add oil, shallots, both Garlic and sweat until tender (not brown). Extinguish with the Worcestershire sauce and add the butter, herbs, and fold together

Divide into three and place on parchment paper and roll into cylinder shape. Place in freezer until firm, or until ready to use.

Note: This recipe makes a large quantity of butter. For home use, consider cutting the recipe in half.

Source: Ian Thompson, Executive Chef, Pacific Grill

Filet mignon with Bûcherons Cheese

Yield: Serves 4

4 (7-ounce) tenderloin steak

Sea salt

Fresh cracked pepper

An heirloom tomato, sliced 1/4-inch thick

4 slices (about 1 / 2 inch thick) Bûcherons cheese (see note)

Season beef with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place on hot grill for about two minutes. After one minute, turn the steaks 90 degrees. Turn steak over and place a slice of tomato on top, then place the cheese on top of that. Close the lid and cook two to four minutes. Cheese should be warm and begin to melt. Remove from heat and let sit for a few minutes and enjoy with an arugula salad tossed in extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, sea salt.

Note: Bûcherons is a goat can be found at Metropolitan Market or Tacoma Boys.

Source: Matt Stickle, Bite Restaurant at Hotel Murano

Paprika Parmesan Butter

1 / 2 pound unsalted butter, soft

1 / 3 cup Parmesan cheese

2 anchovy fillets

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1 / 4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 / 2 teaspoon black pepper

1 / 4 teaspoon salt

1 / 2 teaspoon Tabasco

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Combine all ingredients and mix in the blender. Spread butter in a long hose to a sheet of baking paper and roll the butter into a cylinder. The refrigerator until use, then slice off pat of butter as needed. Will store in the freezer for a few weeks when they are well covered.

Source: Charlie McManus, Primo Grill

Gratin potatoes

Olive oil

1 onion

2 russet potatoes

1 / 2 cup heavy cream

Salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste

Peel and chop onion. In a hot pan fry with a little oil, fry until it begins to caramelize. Peel potatoes and slice 1/8-inch thick and add to onion. Add cream and season to taste. Simmer over low heat until potatoes are tender.

Source: Diana Prine, Fife City Bar and Grill

Blue Cheese Butter

1 / 2 pound unsalted butter, soft

2 g blue cheese

Pinch red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons chopped shallots

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 / 2 teaspoon lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients and mix in the blender. Spread butter in a long hose to a sheet of baking paper and roll the butter into a cylinder. The refrigerator until use, then slice off pat of butter as needed. Will store in the freezer for a few weeks when they are well covered.

Source: Charlie McManus, Primo Grill

Pasta 'CHEESE AND Pepe'

Yield: Serves 6

Kosher salt water for the pasta

1 / 4 cup Black pepper, coarsely ground (more or less to taste)

12 tablespoons unsalted butter (or half butter half olive oil for a replacement "lighter" sauce)

1 pound angel hair pasta, dried capellini (De Cecco size 11 was perfect)

1 / 2 cup pecorino cheese, coarsely grated (plus extra for grating)

Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in a large pan and add 3 tablespoons salt. Do not add oil. Meanwhile, put another large pot over medium heat, add the pepper, and toast, stirring, until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the butter and stir occasionally until the butter has melted. Remove from the heat.

Drain the pasta in boiling water and cook until just al dente. Casting, subject to approximately 1 / 2 cup pasta water.

Add 1 / 4 cup of the reserved pasta water to the butter, then add the pasta and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated. Stir the cheese (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to separate the sauce) and serve immediately with extra grated pecorino or parmesan on the side.

Source: Gordon Naccarato, owner Pacific Grill

Grilled steak with Gorgonzola Mushroom Butter Flatiron and Red Potato Hash Havarti

For Gorgonzola Mushroom Butter:

1 / 2 cup sliced mushrooms

1 / 2 cup soft butter

1 / 2 cup gorgonzola

salt and pepper

For the Red Havarti Potato Hash:

1 pound red potatoes - boiled until tender and cooled and sliced

1 / 2 cup Havarti cheese

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 / 4 cup roasted onions

For the steak:

8 oz choice iron steaks

Olive oil

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

Salt and pepper

For the compound butter: Cook the mushrooms in olive oil until soft. When cool, chop finely. In a mixing bowl with a paddle, combine the remaining ingredients and mix until smooth. Place in refrigerator until needed. For the remaining butter, room temperature, divided into a long tube on a sheet of waxed paper and roll into a cylinder. Butter can be cut as needed.

For the hash: Cook the potatoes in olive oil until they begin to brown. Add the parsley and onions. Season with salt and pepper. Finish in oven until golden brown. Place the potatoes on the plates and top with the Havarti.

For the steaks: Combine the olive oil, rosemary and garlic. Season the steaks and grill, basting occasionally with the olive oil mixture to the desired temperature.

To serve: Top of the steaks with gorgonzola butter, mushrooms and place the plates in the oven until the butter and cheese begins to melt.

Source: Diana Prine, Fife City Bar & Grill

Lemon Mustard Marinated Tri-Tip

Yield: Serves 4

3-4 lbs tri-tip steak

1 / 2 cup lemon juice

Zest of one lemon, zested

1 white onion, julienne cut

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

3 / 4 cup vegetable oil

1 / 2 cup Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon fresh thyme

1 / 2 tablespoon sea salt

Cracked pepper 1 tablespoon fresh

Combine all ingredients in ziplock bag or bowl and marinate overnight. To prepare, remove tri-tip from marinade and reserve. Boil the marinade to a simmer for 20 minutes. Grill meat for about five minutes per side. Cook to desired doneness. Remove from heat and let the five minutes. Slice beef thin against the grain on a bias. To serve, a spoonful of sauce mixture on top. Serve with mashed Yukon potoates and a seasonal vegetable. A wedge of Fourme d'Ambert (French Blue) cheese is also good with this.

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